Distance: 20.3km (163.6km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 460m / 380m / 570m.
Weather: Wonderful.
Now I have been a week on the Camino and has arrived in Logrono. If I were to summarize up this day with one word, it would be churches. Which is not, as you can say, unexpected at all, it is after all originally a religious walk. The Camino today was quite similar to the previous days, we first entered La Rioja just before Logrono, but there were still plenty of vineyards along the route.
The lights from Torres del Rio in the morning, in the background you can see the heights of Monjardin to the left and Montejurra to the right.
Only the lights from Torres del Rio were visible in the morning when we continued walking, we had eaten breakfast in another albergue and started walking in the dark expecting another nice sunrise. The Way started by climbing up to the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Poyo. Since the Camino often goes on good natural paths, there are usually no problems to walk in the dark, and no need to be afraid of getting lost.
Camino-ruins near the trail, now the home of a pinecone-animal.
Over Spain, the sun rose red and fierce, it was a quiet serenade around the hermitage. When the Camino left Alto Nuestra Señora del Poyo, it went relatively steep down to the Rio Cornava, at that time, the light was regained and the vineyards had emerged from the darkness. Still I passed by ruins of lost buildings not far from the route. I made another pinecone-animal, which I left behind outside the collapsed remains of a house, a guardian of the lost times.
The front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria church in Viana.
Between Torres del Rio and Logrono, Viana is the only place of a significant size that you pass through, I could see the houses of the town for a good time before I arrived. Not a large town, but with enough to see for the pilgrims choosing to spend the evening and night there. Shortly after the streets had embraced me, I came to the impressive front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria church. Cesare Borgia was originally buried inside the church after he was killed nearby.
The ruins of the San Pedro church in Viana.
It was however the San Pedro church that received my biggest attention and fascination, that is, the ruins of the church. Empty archways, a church missing its walls, a glass painting in pieces, lost parts of murals and confetti on the floor. Ruins has always fascinated me. I left pleasant Viana after a short stay in the town, with the vineyards awaiting me again.
After Viana, it was less exciting; I was getting closer to Logrono in the horizon, with the open wounds of San Pedro observing me from the top of the town. At Ermita de la Trinidad de Cuevas, a larger group of gypsies had made their camp.
Viana. The ruins of San Pedro clearly visible at the top of the town, with the hole in the church as a focal point.
Just before Logrono, the Camino passes by Pantano Cañas, a bird reservoir. In a small building, I could look at the birds (if you see one) through binoculars, and read about the reservoir. There were also some paths going down to the reservoir, where there were guided pathways you were allowed to walk on.
Pantano Cañas, a bird reservoir the trail passes by before Logrono.
The entrance to Logrono had a nicer approach than Pamplona, even though the city is one of the largest on the Camino. I walked past the hacienda of Doña Feliza; where rumours has it that if you do not get a pilgrim-stamp there, you will not have done a proper pilgrimage. In addition to the mandatory stamp, I granted myself a cold can of coke. I saw Torsten's water bottle left behind on a rock next to the route.
Doña Feliza providing pilgrim-stamps and refreshments before Logrono.
To get to the centre of the city, you cross the bridge Puente de Piedra over Rio Ebro. Logrono is also a popular place to start the Camino from, due to the size, so there will be more pilgrims from now on. I still had not problems getting a bed in the public albergue here. I was also granted good time to explore the city. Benito, who had spent longer time on the walk, due to his knees, told us that he had barely got a place for the night in an albergue in the outskirts of the city.
Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda in Logrono.
What the city is famous for is its tapas, where they are served in the proper tapas way. With its own streets, where you go from place to place and eat a piece of tapas together with a small drink at each place. I had looked forward to this, but the rest of the group was tired and wanted to sit down while they ate.
Inside the cathedral of Logrono.
The cathedral, Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda, in the city was great. You do feel a little bit compelled to visit the religious buildings when you are on a pilgrimage, though in a positive way. Religious or not, the buildings are impressive.
After a week on the Camino, I have now became accustomed with the routines, by secure a bed for the night and wash my clothes when it is needed before I can relax and look at the place I am in. Another nice day, with Logrono the most exciting memory for later.
Dinner in Logrono, from left Pauline, Derek, Christel and Benito.
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