Thursday, August 29, 2013

GR10 // day 31 // Aula - St Lizier d'Ustou

Distance: 21.3km (612.3km), time spent: 8:11 (235:31).
Ascent / descent: 1292m (34958m) / 2102m (34487m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1550m / 740m / 1998m.
Weather: Cloudy and grey, some blue sky.


The mouse wandered a lot in the night and a cow or horse tried to open the door during the night. There is hope outside even though it's cloudy; it's a great morning with nice colors down in the valley. Not the earliest start on my walk today, as we spent a lot of time enjoying the nice morning outside the cabin. The horses that are grazing are visiting us just outside the hut.

A great morning with nice colors in the valley below outside of Cabane d'Aula, horses posing in the morning light.

I can see the sun lighting up the mountain behind me when I walk up towards Port d'Aula. Todays stage starts with a steep climb straight on, 450 meters of ascent just outside the door of the cabin. I feel somewhat betrayed up at Port d'Aula (1998m); a large cloud is blocking the view of the sun. The scenery is great though, a rolling green mountain landscape, that unfortunately lasted all too short. Walking along the trail I can look down towards Col de Pause, there at least is the sun illuminating the landscape.

Up at Port d'Aula.

Étang d'Arreau (1886m) is a nice lake, next to it is Refuge d'Arreau that looks like it's not in use yet. I pass by Cabane d'Arreau (1696m), which is a private cabane, there are people there now working to improve it. Down at Col de Pause (1527m) I can look over to the valley (Estours) that I went up yesterday, the trail is taking a nice trip around Port d'Aula to here. Down from the pause pass a road is going that is crossed several times, but the markings is quite bad here and it's hard to locate the path (you can follow the road instead which will take you to the same place as the path).

View down towards Col de Pause.

The trail is passing two small hamlets on the way down the valley, Faup and Raufaste. Down at Couflens (702m), where the guidebook is advertising that it isn't even a pub there, I set off away from the trail in search for a place to eat that is supposedly five minutes away according to a sign. I turn around when my mind clears up and understand that it's five minutes away by car and not on foot. Claire has come down to Couflens when I return. Nothing in the village.

Étang d'Arreau.

After coming up to Rouze (930m) by a steep trail we sit down outside the gîte next to the farm. Inside it's very nice, and with a self-service. I serve myself to good plum juice from the farm, beer, chocolate and chips. If I where to stay here for a longer stay I would stay inside, it is an incredible amount of flies here.

Faup. Across the valley is Rouze and above Col de la Serre du Clot.

Up to Col de la Serre du Clot you pass a lot of ruined farms, in addition to an almost ruined hamlet. At the top of the pass (1546m) I can look back across the valley to Col de Pause. Time for a new steep descent. Nearby Crabude I can for the first time in a long time see the sun at the sky for a short period.

Col de la Serre du Clot, looking back towards Col de Pause.

St Lizier d'Ustou (740m) is a quiet and tranquil place. I'm the only guest at the gîte (La Colline Verte) at the place it appears, Claire is also coming there later since it was full at the camp site (which feels quite odd since there are barely anybody else to see in the little village). The evening is quiet. Good dinner at the only bar and restaurant at the place, but I'm eating almost all by myself there.

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