Ascent / descent: 1623m (31050m) / 1686m (30392m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 990m / 927m / 1821m.
Weather: Fog, grey and dull.
The Ariege is supposedly known for its fickle weather and clouds that could be hanging in the valleys all day, something I was to be familiar with in the upcoming days. Today I've planned to go to Cabane de Besset, a cozy hut when the fire is lit according to the guidebook. Since it's a sad and dull world outside at the moment a cozy hut inside would be nice, there's is no trace of the blue sky of yesterday.
Eylie d'En Haut in the background with the old mine workings in the front.
My wind jacket is wrapped tightly around me on the way up to Col de l'Arech. Looking back under the clouds I can see Eylie and the remains of the old mine workings down in the valley. A little stone shelter appears after I walk out of the woods. Up at Col de l'Arech (1802m) the weather is sour and gusty; all view is hidden behind the clouds. In the door of Cabane de l'Arech (1638m) a man is standing and scowling out at the grey weather while he's smoking. I can see a disheveled tent camp that has seen its better days.
Fog over Col de l'Arech.
The Orle valley below is dark and gloomy, but probably mostly because of the weather, it's a remote and dank valley. There is a cabane here not far from the trail, Cabane de Grauillès. A flock of horses are greeting me on the trail at Flouquet (1081moh). Before I begin the ascent up from the valley again I encounter some daytrippers on their way up. I wonder a little bit on what it is in this valley that attracts them to go to see in this weather.
The trail is then undulating steeply upwards. I emerge out over the trees where the fog is awaiting me eagerly. The grass is colored white by the dew when I walk up through the fog. Cabane de Besset (1494m) appears above me; above the cabin there is nothing to see.
Cabane de Besset, a very nice and cozy hut.
I've arrived early; the time isn't even past two o'clock. The view towards Cabane de l'Arech from the cabin is a grey wall, the picture in the book is much nicer. Cabane de Besset is a really nice and cozy hut, but I still feel that just sitting inside the hut for the rest of the day would become boring in the end and a summit bid bears no meaning in this weather. And the thought has struck me underway, I decide to continue walking.
View down towards Cabane de Besset with the Orle valley below.
But not after I've taken myself a long break inside the hut. Since the original thought was to stay over at the cabin did I carry with me some additional treats, where a local beer and cheese is among the items. In the flickering light of a candlelight I have a nice lunch with hot tea inside. I should have walked here yesterday.
Then I move on up towards Clot de Lac (1821m), further down the silhouette of Cabane de Besset is visible before it disappears in the clouds. At the pass there is another also quite nice cabin. Through small glimpses I can look over to the other of the valley towards Col de l'Arech. The trail is carrying me down again, but the clouds are lifting a little bit. I pass a small stone shelter probably built for emergency use. There's a lot of these open mountain cabins here in this area, I pass two another on the way down, Cabane du Trapech du Milieu (1540m) and Cabane de l'Artigue. The latter is only consisting of a large flat-bed and fireplace inside.
Misty mountains over the grand ravin de Trapech.
In Pla de la Lau (927m) there is a big building beneath the somber mountainsides, Gîte-Auberge La Maison Valier. It's a quiet day here today, only an older family of four visiting in addition to myself. The dinner is great, one of the best on the walk so far and is consisting of quiche, ham, salad, steak, potatoes and a good tomato-sauce. And I get to sleep in a proper bed again. It was mostly a grey, dull and a little bit boring walk today; but with a very nice lunch at Cabane de Besset.
Cabane de l'Artigue with the emerald mountains above.
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