Monday, September 22, 2014

Baekdu Daegan // day 19 // Beorimigijae - Eunti

Baekdudaegan day 19.
Distance: 11.0km (304.6km), time spent: 05:45 (157:46).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 500m / 297m / 916m.
Weather: Sunny.


From my forbidden sleep below Beorimigijae, I wake up to a nice day, still tired. Looking around my campsite, I can see some littering around, so apparently I am not the first one to have spent the night here. Morning chores go slow. That being said, I have enough time to spend today, I have planned for a shorter day. The guidebook's suggestion that I should go to Eunti, seems like a good idea.

My campsite in the forest below Beorimigijae.

Firstly, however, I do have to go back up to the pass where the trail continues. Secondly, the trailhead is fenced off, so I have to find another way to the trail from the pass. There is a stream running down from the ridge a little way down from the pass, next to it a path is trailing up into the forest. I follow the path for some time, before deciding to leave it and climb up to the Baekdudaegan. Crossing the stream, I step dangerously close to a coiled up snake, an important reminder to be careful where you put your feet. There are snakes in South-Korea that are potentially lethal, and this is not the first snake I have seen on the trail, nor will it be the last.

A coiled up snake lies looking at me, I stepped dangerously close to it while crossing a stream.

This closed section through Songnisan carries no demanding parts like the closed sections on the two previous days, and I am thankful for it. The walking is mostly easy, a boon for a tired walker. And there are occasionally superb views to be had. However, the best views are before the summit of Jangseongbong (916m), at the start of the day. The last of the hours I spend in Songnisan National Park is a pleasant walk.

A beautiful view of ridges in the horizon, seen through the trees on a boulder on the climb up Jangseongbong.

At the Akhuibong junction, Songnisan is letting me go. Akhuibong itself is a worthy detour, I do not take it. No excursions today. Going further, the trail reopens and I can breathe free air again. I reach Euntigogae, where I leave the white head great ridge for today. About 2km down the valley from the pass lies the quiet mountain village of Eunti, but leaving the ridge is not something I do lightly. I know I will have to walk back up again.

The ridge opens up just before the summit of Jangseongbong, and I can behold this magnificent vista. Huiyangsan in the centre at the back.

At the summit of Jangseongbong.

Everything is quiet and serene down in the valley, except when I set off an alarm system belonging to an apple orchard just before I arrive at Eunti. A mighty glockenspiel ensues; the whole valley probably knows I will be coming now. The sight of the apples makes my mouth water. So much, that when I later pass a storage building for apples, I humbly ask if I can buy some apples, instead I leave with a bag full of juicy apples.

Ribbons and ladders leading the way on a descent on the trail.

The bustling waterhole here, The Baekdudaegan Swimteo, is however quite quiet and appears closed. A group of hikers coming down after me calls the owner. The place is closed, but I can sleep in the container opposite the restaurant. Leaving, they give me a huge bottle of beer and some food to eat (rice with beans). I can use the shower next to the restaurant, where I wash my clothes and myself, but the water is freezing cold.

Jangseung-poles and a monument in the small mountain village of Eunti.

The Yeongpung Confucian School in Goesan.

Later on, I travel to the nearby town of Yeonpungmyeon. I have started to look at these rides with taxis and cars here, as small adventures in themselves. In Yeonpungmyeon, I eat a huge rice curry dinner in a restaurant above a Nong Hyup supermarket. Looking around the small town, I find an old Confucian School. At the supermarket, I becomes the centre of attention; when I am leaving, the clerk at the counter bestows me with a handful of chocolate bars. My list of received jeong grows long.

The Baekdudaegan Swimteo in Eunti, notice the large number of ribbons and kettles hanging on the wall. The place was closed at the moment.

Back at Eunti, I spend the rest of the evening resting. Although kind of weird, the inside of the container is not so bad, I make myself at home. Going to bed, am I still unsure whether I have had enough rest.

Inside the container where I stayed the night in Eunti.

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