Thursday, September 4, 2014

Baekdu Daegan // prologue // Jungsanri - Cheonwangbong

Jungsanri, in the morning on September 4. The foreboding clouds heavily packed with rain, which was lying as a dark blanket over the mountains yesterday, has drifted away during the night. After a breakfast consisting of the usual amount of kimchi I stand packed and ready outside the Jirisan National Park Visitor Center, with the adventure lying in front of me. Which is about 735 kilometers and over 40 days of walking if everything goes by the plan, but first I have to get up to where the trail is starting from, Cheonwangbong.

Standing on the bridge next to the beginning of the trail up towards Cheonwangbong.

The trail up to the summit is a steep and relentless climb just over 5km in length, and the ascent is starting almost at once from the beginning. The path is well defined and clear, and feels almost constructed by character. It is not marked in any way, but there are signposts at regular intervals indicating how far it is to the next and previous place. The signposts are written in both English and Korean (hangeul).

The trail to Cheonwangbong from Jungsanri goes through a green and verdant forest in the beginning.

My body feels fit and I am walking rapidly upwards, eager in the beginning after finally starting on my walk. All around me is a cacophony of sounds from an insect I have no idea what is, giving me more the feeling of walking in a jungle than in a forest (or on a mountain). It is a walk in a green and verdant world, with a steep trail consisting of round and slippery rocks winding itself between the trees. Some places constructed staircases are replacing the path, carrying you over steep parts or over sections being protected for environmental purposes.

One of several staircases or boardwalks you have to go over on the way up to the summit.

Jirisan National Park is South-Korea's largest refuge for wild animals and among the animals are a population of Asiatic black bears. After walking over a suspension bridge several banners are warning me about their existence and that it is dangerous to walk outside of the marked paths. Just after the bridge is a junction on the trail, giving you the option of going straight up to the Jangteomok shelter instead of continuing up towards Cheonwangbong. Clouds has now reappeared in the sky, and only occasionally are small glimpses of blue sky being carried down between the trees. Some rocky outcrops, which are easy to scramble on top of, provides a view over the forest and the mountains, but only fragments of the landscape are visible through the layers of clouds.

Rotary shelter, a small cabin than can sleep up to 40 people.

Beopgyesa temple, a small and nice temple you pass on the way up to Cheonwangbong, well worth the visit.

After walking for about 4km you get to the Rotary shelter, which is a small, but nicely situated cabin. It is a tranquil place and a suitable spot for a rest after two hours on the way. A group of other hikers also having a break at the cabin treats me with fried chicken, potatoes, biscuits, an energy bar and the usual soju. Koreans are extremely hospitable and seems to be happily sharing their food with others (and completely strangers).

The view from Bepgyesa is great, but today the weather gods didn't provide a clear sky at my disposal.

Situated just above the shelter is the Beopgyesa temple, a small temple originally built in the year 544 by the Indian missionary-monk Yeongi-josa, and is one of Korea's highest situated temples. The temple has been destroyed several times, especially during the Japanese invasions of Korea, but has always been rebuilt afterwards. Located on the top of the temple compounds you will find the 'Pavilion of the Guardian Deity of the Mountain', a splendid three-storied pagoda which is the only remaining artifact from the original temple. It is a temple well worth a visit.

A glimpse of Jungsanri deep below from a window through the clouds.

Filled with an inner peace I return back to the steep world up towards Cheonwangbong, from Beopgyesa the trail increases in gradient. Several staircases brings you higher up in altitude over the remaining 2 kilometers to the summit. Some small and incredibly cute squirrels darts around my feet on the climb up. The final part up to the highest point on South-Korea's mainland is breaking out of the forest over stairs of wood and stone.

One of the small and incredibly cuite squirrels that was darting around on the trail.

There is not much view to get up at the summit of Cheonwangbong at 1915m when I arrive; clouds are playing around obscuring the view. An almost oval monument of stone carrying the name of the peak greets me among a few occasional glimpses of the surrounding world far below, South-Korea's undulating landscape and blue ridges still a secret hidden for me. My mood is, however, very good. I have had a nice walk up here to the start of my next big adventure, the Baekdudaegan trail.

The summit of Cheonwangbong at 1915m.

The last steep climb up to the summit.

<- JungsanriSeseok ->

2 comments:

  1. really nice pics and your writings. i hope you enjoyed your trip.

    ReplyDelete
  2. The cloud almost seems alive. It adds such an expression on the amazing views.

    ReplyDelete

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