Thursday, October 2, 2014

Baekdu Daegan // day 29 // Buseoksa

Rest day, and ever this urge to continue walking. But even though it is a rest day, I do walk, just not on the trail. The best thing about walking on a rest day is that I am not carrying a heavy backpack on my back. After being on the road for about a month, I have to tell that my body does feel kind of battered. This was, maybe optimistic, according to my plan to be my first day without walking.

A park below Buseoksa, around the park there where several restaurants and accommodations.

You have to fill the day with something, and there is not much to do in the small area below the temple. There is a ginseng festival in a nearby town, Punggi. Mr. Jeon Yeong-Su calls me in the morning to invite me to the festival. It does not start until tomorrow however, and then it is all the walking I have to do. Somewhat sad, I have to politely turn down the offer. He is otherwise telling me that it is not far to Sosu Seowon, an old Confucian academy, and Seonbichon, and old village for Confucian learning that is now a museum.

Muryangsujeon, the main building in Buseoksa, and the oldest remaining wooden building in Korea.

I start anyway my life as a tourist here, with a walk up to Buseoksa again. There are now many more people here than when I arrived yesterday. The temple bears the same name as a big and round boulder, buseok, which means floating rock. The floating boulder lies just outside the main hall of the temple, Muryangsujeon, which is the oldest remaining wooden building in Korea. To get up there you walk up, among and through ornamented buildings and pavilions. I receive a free lunch in the restaurant for the temple, consisting of vegetarian food and rice cakes.

Outside Sosu Seowon and Seonbichon there is a pleasant park area, where the river Okgyesu that has its source in Sobaeksan runs through.

Below the temple again, there goes a bus to Punggi. I get off at Sosu Seowon, where Mr. Jeon has arranged for me to meet Mr. Kim, who will show me around the area. He waves me free of charge into the place, even though the entrance ticket is insignificant. Sosu Seowon is not just old; it is also the oldest private Neo-Confucian academy in Korea. Around the small school, there is a nice park, where the river Okgyesu runs through. On some rocks there are hangeul writing edged into them, which are reflected in the water. Inside among the buildings, it is quiet; you can almost sense the sounds of writing from ancient times. Beyond the academy, it is livelier, it is the day of the elders today and it is celebrated with a feast and dancing.

Sosu Seowon, a Neo-Confucian academy.

I did not get time to look at the old folk village. Mr. Kim and one of the others guides working at the place are driving me to a restaurant recommended by Mr. Jeon. We bid farewell, whereupon I happily get to eat to my heart's content a large and good portion of bulkogi. The most exciting now is how to get back to Buseoksa. There was supposed to be a bus station here, but I cannot see it at first, hidden beyond a large commercial balloon. Luckily, I do not have to wait long before the bus is arriving, so my nerves calmed down a little. Sitting on the bus I am back to my little adventure mode, looking out at the landscape and people. Dark clouds over the mountains now. Two other hikers are on the bus, with gigantic backpacks.

Portraits of the two most important scholars in Sosu Seowon.

In the afternoon, I go back up to the temple again, even if there is not a possibility to see the sunset now. The clouds are the ones playing the most at the sky. I keep company with a monk from Seoul on the way. Quiet at the temple, and there is a nice light on the sky, a mix between clear sky and rain. But where the sun is, are also the clouds.

Buseoksa in the afternoon.

Down at the minbak again, I receive some more apples and juice, this time from the owner. I have lost count on how many apples, grapes and other things that has been given to me. Enough walking for today. This evening I get to see a whole movie on the TV, Knight And Day by James Mangold. A light and forgettable thing, as opposed to this adventure.

<- BuseoksaDoraegijae ->

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