Sunday, August 7, 2016

Massiv // day 7 // Finnsbergvatnet - Finse

Massiv day 7.
Distance: 16.9km (156.4km), time spent: 6:22 (57:13).
Ascent / descent: 460m (4454m) / 468m (4236m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1209m / 1222m / 1429m.
Weather: Mostly grey and overcast, then a deluge, overcast again near the end.


A quick look outside the tent reveals that the morning has not paid any heed to yesterdays glorious evening, a shield has descended upon the sky and is blocking all sunlight. Some drops of rain are also descending. Those two factors does not concern me much, but it would be nice to have one full day with sun and a clear blue sky. I shall however not complain, the weather has been erratic, but is has been far better than what I had expected. Back home before I left, the forecast for this week was anything but positive.

Looking back at Finnsbergvatnet, my campsite was at the other end of the lake.

What I have in store of weather on the way today, carries no significance either. The end of the story and the journey is that I will come to Finse, where I can get a shower and can change into dry clothes. Then I will be sitting on a train. Few concerns. My only slight concern earlier was to reach the train, and even if I had started from Krækkja this morning I would probably have enough time. Now I have more than enough, no need to stress about anything. I have about six hours left of my hike, given the estimates by the Norwegian trekking association of this route.

Grey mountain scenery.

One of the few (and small) snow banks between Krækkja and Finse, less snow here on this stretch than it was when I walked here in the Summer of 2012.

In the Winter, it is called a whiteout when the ground and sky blends together in a blizzard, when one fails to distinguish the ground from the sky. With this grey sky and grey landscape, could this be called a greyout? They almost go in one, a landscape almost without color nuances. A stone desolation. Rough and cool.

View through the rain down towards where the Rallarvegen passes by Storurevatnene.

For a while I feel utterly alone, where I do not expect to meet anyone until I arrive at Finse. Only Hardangerjøkulen that is keeping half an eye on me, partly hidden by the clouds, but eventually two other hikers appears. Two dark figures that hardly are visible in the landscape. This is their first hike that extends to more than one night, according to them, so they are a little bit excited.

Clouds forming a clear and grey border between land and sky, Hardangerjøkulen partly obscured by the grey weather.

Small light rain showers come and go, apparently only when I take a break. Small and short breaks, small and short rain showers. Before Torsteinsvatnet, the route offers views down towards where Rallarvegen is passing Storurevatnene, but I cannot see if there are any cyclists who are out there in the rain (Rallarvegen is a famous road that it is very popular to go biking on).

Hardangerjøkulen with Blåisen (named after its blue ice).

The full front of the rain does finally arrive, right before I come down to where the path from Kjeldebu joins my route towards Finse. As a wall from the West. With the exception of the evening and night at Reinsmyrtjørna, this is the heaviest of rain that I have had on my hike. Conveniently enough at the time that my stomach has ordered lunch. From Kjeldebu comes first a group of walkers that go with firm steps towards Finse, then a solitary hiker moments later. They do as I do, stands for a short time in the shelter of a rock and eats quickly, before disappearing.

Rain approaching, a grey wall on its way.

The rain subsides somewhat after a little while, so I can sit down and eat more properly. Without any long breaks, as well as I have kept a decent pace, makes me ahead of the schedule. I can take it easy the last kilometers to Finse, vaguely visible through the veil of rain and clouds. The mountains in the horizon are dark. I can see a train leaving the station at Finse.

A short break in the deluge, rolling (smoking) clouds over Vetle Hansbunuten.

I arrive at Finse and the end of Massiv for me this year. Just before I am at the train station there is a train going to Oslo. I might be able to reach it, but my fellow passengers would probably not be so happy about it (getting a smelly and sweat hiker next to them). This is where this years Summer hike in the mountains ends. It has been a great week and a wonderful crossing of Hardangervidda.

At Finsefetene the river is crossed on a suspension bridge, would not want to fall into the water.

With my train ticket in my pocket (for the 18:20 train, I arrived around 14:30), I walk to Finsehytta for a shower, it will be good to shower off the shower I got on my way here. Plenty of time to the train is departing, so overlooking Finsevatnet and the rain, I can sit down and relax with some food and taste the local beer from the microbrewery at the place. I get company by the solitary hiker I met, who is from Germany. This was also his first hike that lasted several days, he was happy with his trip, but was tired and satisfied that he was finished.

Finse and thee end of first part of the Massiv trail for my part.

So, then I leave Finse and Massiv. Someone stole my portable seat pad while I relaxed at the cabin, not exactly a huge loss, but quite petty to steal such a small item if you ask me. The train rolls down, passing cyclists on Rallarvegen, gradually descending. The mountains becomes smaller, more and more trees appears, the vegetation takes over, valleys opens up. Behind me seven days on Hardangervidda and Massiv. Next year, I will hopefully return to Finse, ready to proceed further into Skarvheimen. So long for this time. First time, I have done a 'pub to pub' walk in the mountains.

Map of the trail for the seventh and last day on Massiv, from Finnsbergvatnet to Finse.

<- FinnsbergvatnetGeitryggvatnet ->

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