Sunday, October 1, 2017

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 11 // Kongōchōji - Tōnohama

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 11.
Temples: #26-27 (Kongōchōji, Kōnomineji).
Distance: 37.9km (308.7km), time spent: 10:48.
Weather: Nice.


There was a clear goal today, getting to temple #27, Kōnomineji, before the temple office close. In other word, visiting the temple before tomorrow, when it is going to rain. That meant I had to start climbing up to the temple from Tōnohama not later than 15 o'clock, otherwise it would be too late. No point in climbing up if you arrive at a time where you cannot get your book stamped. This is an important point, on this pilgrimage you are somehow tied up with the closing hours of the temples. If a temple is closed and you have not got the stamp for that temple, you essentially cannot go further.

Morning light from the shukubō at Kongōchōji.

After the large breakfast and before I go, I return to Kongōchōji to conduct the rituals and get my book stamped. A more ordinary temple, but that does not mean it is not a nice temple, and it is peaceful there. The daishido is old, from 1486, whereas the rest of the buildings burned down in a fire in 1899. I do not like hearing about these temples burning down, it feels so sad.

Kongōchōji.

From Kongōchōji there are two paths the henros can choose from, one going more directly towards the next temple and the one that I choose. It is this curiosity again. Down by another of those wonderful rocky coastlines here lies the inner sanctuary or okunoin of Kongōchōji, Fudō-iwa. This is a large rock that houses a cave with a small shrine inside of it. Tiny pathways takes you around the cliff and down to the interesting rocks down by the sea.

Carving of Kōbō Daishi in a tree, from the daishido of Kongōchōji.

When this is visited, the Shikoku Hachijūhachikasho Meguri again continues alongside the coast, now with the ocean on my left hand side. Walking in Shikoku is a good way to explore the past it seems, when walking through Kiragawa I go through the same streets as people did in the late 19th and early 20th century. Although there are no other people in the streets between the white plaster walls and rock walls now, only me and maybe the ghosts from the past.

The shrine inside Fudō-iwa.

Fudō-iwa.

I take a short rest at Y Shop where a film crew is making a TV spot, following a henro in his footsteps around Shikoku. I shortly after follow in their footsteps as they take on the short path going over the hills above Cape Hane-misaki, but soon overtakes them. They are all nice guys, but I do no think the henro in focus is very much used to walking. And maybe that is a good thing too, indicating to people what they can expect from the pilgrimage. The walk across the hill is a welcome break from the hard walk on the paved roads so far.

Section of the path going over the hill at Cape Hane-misaki.

Upon reaching Nahari / Tano, looking at my pictures, I reckon that I have visited almost every conceivable temple or shrine along the way. Fascinating. All the convenience stores around Shikoku may not provide the most culinary experiences, but they sure is convenient. I stock up on some food and snacks and sit down in a kyūkeisho (rest hut) near Nahari River for lunch. I have got serious hooked on those yamochi sweets they sell.

Sneek peak at the Oka-goten residence.

Yoshi-san had yesterday be so kind to book a place for me at the same place he was going to stay at, Tōnohama Minshuku. Arriving at the minshuku, I am greeted with a glass of appreciated cold water and a welcome smile, that should change later though. I then leave my backpack, using only my nifty ultra lightweight backpack to carry with me what I need for the climb up to temple #27, Kōnomineji. I have good time, arriving at the minshuku at half past two.

A torii of a shrine in Nahari / Tano.

The climb up to the God Summit Temple is just over 3km long, mostly going on road, with short sections of natural paths in between, some even Henro-korogashi. I am all smile when I walk upwards. Three of the other henros from Kongōchōji are coming out from the sanmon of the temple when I arrive, it is nice to meet them again. Osata and Koh is also here. This temple is confusing, I do a lot of staircase climbing trying to find the purification basin to wash my hands and mouth in. I end up doing it in a small washing room (there were ladles there as well), only to find out just afterwards that the purification basin is at the beautiful little waterfall at the foot of the stairs. Confusing, but beautiful. Everything here is at different levels, the temple office, the hondo and the daishido.

The path up to Kōnomineji.

Kōnomineji.

This temple is considered a nansho temple, meaning a difficult temple (being in a mountain for instance), but it is also an interesting temple due to its history. It was burned down in the Meiji Period, and so the honzon (the principal image) was moved to Kongōchōji until 1912. At that time there was a law forbidding construction of new temples, so local residents found an unused temple, Jizō-in, which they dismantled and moved to this location. Then the honzon was moved back again.

A small and beautiful waterfall at Kōnomineji.

Above Kōnomineji lies Kōnomine Jinja, like moths are drawn to light, I am drawn further upwards by my curiosity and sense of adventure. The path up is on a staircase of stone being lost to vegetation, it is a walk of bygone days. The old shrine is surrounded by that same mysterious atmosphere. All over the shrine, nature retakes what it has lost, things are overgrowing. Once again, I have a feeling of discovering an ancient lost place.

Kōnomine Jinja.

I do not stop at Kōnomine Jinja, cannot help seeing that there is an observation park at the top of the mountain. I climb further up and around. To an observation tower with wonderful views at its upmost level. Looking out, I can see as far as Cape Muroto-misaki. I can only describe this as pure joy.

The view from the top of the observation tower above Kōnomineji and Kōnomine Jinja, Cape Muroto-misaki is visible in the distance.

Now, of course, this comes at a price. First, I have a longer walk down ahead of me, but returning to Tōnohama Minshuku, I find the hostess a little bit aggrevated by me. She had expected me to come back a lot earlier, but when she asked me before I left at what time I wanted to have dinner, I had given a time giving me enough time for my adventures (I had originally planned to walk the Shikoku-no-michi route down again). Now, my dinner is already at the table. However, she quickly changes attitude, so, I assume it is all due to a misunderstanding. I quickly take a bath, no escaping that, before getting back to eat. I eat together with Koh, who is also staying here.

My adventure to the top of the mountain above Kōnomineji made the day. Now to prepare for tomorrows walk in rain.

The Pacific ocean in the evening sun.

<- KongōchōjiKagami ->

1 comment:

  1. I like it very much to read your henro diary. You are like me, walking detours and visiting okunoin. Fudō-iwa is such a wonderfull place!
    I went there twice, in Fall 2015 and last Spring.
    When I read your blog and see your pictures, I want to start (if I had the time!) to update my website with my visits to the Bekkaku and okunoin. I already made slideshows of 6 okunoin. I will post these on the FB page soon!

    ReplyDelete

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